Book Review – “Molecular Gastronomy” by Herve This

January 27th, 2010

Molecular Gastronomy is a fast-growing part of the culinary world and one I enjoy. The idea is to understand the science of cooking and be able to use commercially available products such as gums and gels that are normally incorporated into food processing in a culinary, restaurant setting. Using these products allows chefs to create food that they would normally be unable to make. One of the most memorable meals I have ever had was at the holiday party that Mont Blanc hosted several years ago, where the chef incorporated molecular-gastronomy techniques into the different dishes using such ingredients as liquid nitrogen to create ice cream tableside in about sixty seconds. One of the highlights of that evening was working with the chef to make the ice cream, pouring the nitrogen on our hands and watching the “smoke” rise from our skin. Check out the pictures and story on my blog.

One of the co-founders of molecular gastronomy is Herve This, who has written a book called “Molecular Gastronomy.” It is a fascinating introduction to thinking about cooking in a scientific fashion. The book is composed of short chapters, each one detailing a new product or dish to be created. The chapters range from appetizers to entrees to desserts and drinks. One of my favorite chapters was on creating Chantilly Chocolate, a foamy chocolate dessert that is light and airy. It is made by combining chocolates and water, something not normally done since chocolate has a tendency to seize up, and whisking the mixture so that the ingredients are incorporated and assume the foamy texture. Reading this book offers a fascinating introduction to molecular gastronomy and will make you think about cooking in a very different way.

Book Review – “Spiced” by Dahlia Jurgensen

January 13th, 2010

“Spiced,” by Dahlia Jurgensen, is the interesting insider account of a successful New York City pastry chef as she struggles to prove herself as both a woman and a pastry chef in the Manhattan restaurant scene. Her account begins with her work at Nobu, the always packed, trendy Japanese restaurant. VIPs were always accorded special treatment, and most often that meant complimentary desserts, which Jurgensen had to create. Fresh from culinary training, she begins her internship and learns the spare, classical aesthetic that is the hallmark of Japanese cuisine.

Once her internship ends, she moves to another restaurant, following her chef, who had opened a place with a partner. As she learns more about pastry and cooking, she decides to focus on pastry. Pastry chefs are a unique commodity in any restaurant because of the exceptionally high skill level and training required to create and reproduce desserts. They are different from regular cooks because of the level of precision required in making pastries. Cooks can be imprecise when making a dish, often measuring and seasoning to taste. Pastry chefs and bakers must be more careful, measuring every ingredient exactly and working the dough, pate, ganache, or crème for just the right amount of time. Otherwise, puff pastry doesn’t rise, ganache doesn’t set up and soufflés fall.

As Anthony Bourdain’s “Kitchen Confidential” exposed the world of restaurant kitchens, “Spiced” is a fun read, providing insight into the life and specialized training required of dessert chefs in professional kitchens.

Book Review – “The Physiology of Taste Or, Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy” by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

October 7th, 2009

Tagged: Book Reviews

It is hard to believe that a book written in 1825 about cooking and food would continue to be relevant today, but Brillat-Savarin’s masterpiece is as timely now as it was almost two centuries ago when it first appeared. This astute analysis of food, cooking and eating covers every aspect of cuisine, including recipes, discussions of meals, culinary adventures and how different types of food affect people. The book revels in the pleasures of food in all of its forms.

The Physiology of Taste

Each section of the book is divided into Meditations, ranging from Gastronomy in General, defined as the intelligent knowledge of whatever concerns man’s nourishment, to Meditations on Food in General. Within each Meditation are more detailed discussions, including some of my favorites on sugar, coffee and chocolate.

One intriguing aspect of what he writes is its historical perspective. In the early 1800s, restaurants were just becoming commonplace, so several Meditations discuss these new establishments, including the novelties of their menus — which for the first time gave people the opportunity to select dishes for their meals from a variety of preparations.

So too, his comments about sugar are interesting, noting how widespread its use had become, albeit in such a relatively short period of time. “The use of sugar has daily become more widespread and more general, and there is not a single article of food which has undergone more changes and more combinations. People eat it in its pure state, mixed with water, made into syrup, sherbets, mixed with wine to make cordials … mixed with flour and eggs for the fairly new art of baking little cakes … mixed with coffee sugar accentuates the aroma. … The uses of sugar do not stop there, however. It can be said that it is the universal flavoring and ruins nothing.”

Brillat-Savarin was fastidious in his study of food, carefully re-creating recipes and processes to determine the best methods of preparation. Coffee received special scrutiny from both a historical perspective in where it originated and then how it was best prepared. “The beverage brewed from raw beans is truly insignificant; but roasting develops in them an aroma and forms an oil which characterizes coffee as we know it today, and which would have remained eternally unsuspected without the intervention of heat.” He relates the difference between grinding coffee with a mortar and pestle and with a coffee mill. Taking a pound of coffee, he separated the beans into two equal portions, grinding one with a mortar and pestle, the other with a coffee mill. “The unanimous opinion was that the beverage made from the pounded beans was obviously superior to that which came from the milled coffee.” I kept thinking how that might make for an interesting morning ritual at home and at coffee shops across the world, were everyone to adopt his advice!

Chocolate was another item that he carefully studied, and, to the delight of connoisseurs everywhere, he pronounced, “With time and experience it has been shown as proof positive that carefully prepared chocolate is as healthful a food as it is pleasant; that it is nourishing and easily digested; that it is above all helpful to people who must do a great deal of mental work. … People who habitually drink chocolate enjoy unvarying health, and are least attacked by a host of little illnesses which can destroy the true joy of living; their physical weight is almost stationary. … Americans make their chocolate without sugar … this appeals neither to our manners nor to our preferences, and here in France we like to have chocolate served to us all prepared.”

Two centuries later, it is refreshing to read Brillat-Savarin’s words and realize how little has changed in many of the foods we eat and the beverages we drink. This book reminds us of the timelessness and universality of the products we enjoy daily and is a necessary addition to the library of anyone interested in gastronomy and food.

Book Review – “My Life in France” by Julia Child

September 30th, 2009

Tagged: Book Reviews

Julia Child has become a celebrity again, after her death, with the release of the movie “Julie & Julia.” The movie combines two stories, layering the storyline of Julie, who creates a blog wherein she cooks her way through every recipe in Julia Child’s remarkable “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” in one year, and the storyline of Julia Child’s biography and the effort it took to create her masterpiece.

Julie & Julia

Julia Child’s story is beautifully portrayed in her autobiography, “My Life in France,” and the background of her life with her husband, Paul, is also fascinating. They first met in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) during World War II when both worked for the Office of Strategic Services. They subsequently moved to Paris, where Julia’s passion for cooking was uncovered. Visits to restaurants, bakers, cheese makers, butchers, fish mongers, candy makers and chocolatiers followed as Child followed her passion and learned as much as she could about food and French cooking.

My Life in France Julia Child

Julia Child is a culinary icon who was a driving force in creating the culinary and gastronomic culture that exists in the United States today. Her impact can’t be overstated. “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” helped spark a love affair with cooking that continues today. Her television show, “The French Chef,” introduced even more people to classical French techniques and helped make cooking accessible to everyone. The cookbook is enormous, more than 700 pages in the first volume, and took eight years to write and publish. One of the things I learned in her autobiography was that she possessed a remarkable dedication to the craft of cooking and a quest for perfection. Recipes were tested dozens and sometimes hundreds of times, with slight variations of ingredients and technique, so that every step was clearly understood and every recipe could be replicated at home.

Mastering the art of French cooking

The movie was fun to watch, but Julia Child’s autobiography is even more interesting to read for its portrayal of life in Paris, a life spent pursuing a passion for food, and how one woman helped transform and change America’s love for cooking.

Book Review – “Grinding It Out” by Ray Kroc

August 5th, 2009

I was recently invited to visit McDonald’s world headquarters in Oak Brook, Ill. It is a beautiful, verdant campus, where the main buildings are low brick-and-glass edifices reminding me of a Frank Lloyd Wrightdesign. While there, I was given a copy of “Grinding It Out,” Ray Kroc’s autobiography. The book is a fascinating recounting of how and why he was able to build the icon that is the world’s best-known brand.

The outlines of the story are fairly well known. Kroc was a 52-year-old salesman selling milkshake machines who visited the McDonald brothers’ restaurant in San Bernardino, Calif., because they were using so many milkshake machines. Whereas a typical customer used one Multimixer, the brothers had eight. They had created a basic menu of burgers, fries and milkshakes and produced everything using a simple assembly-line system that fascinated Kroc. He agreed to go into business with them, franchising the concept that they had created.

Kroc’s drive and vision are what stand out in the story. He was relentless in pursuing ideas that he believed in. And his belief that there could be hundreds of McDonald’s around the United States was what prompted him to join the partnership. Of course, in retrospect it seems almost quaint when he considers hundreds of locations, given what the company has become. Today there are more than 31,000 McDonald’s worldwide, serving 58 million people daily. But it was also a struggle that took years to fully develop the concept he envisioned.

As he recounts, one of the first difficulties occurred in translating the concept of the store in San Bernardino to other locations, beginning in Illinois. The famed French fries, for example, simply weren’t turning out properly in the new stores. It turned out that the potatoes in California were being stored outside, which allowed the sugars to develop into starch differently than if they were stored inside, which by necessity they had to be in Illinois because the weather there was so different. It took three months of experimenting for Kroc to recreate the French fry that he wanted.

From the beginning, Kroc focused on creating a system for his restaurants that could be easily replicated, and he continued improving the original assembly line. He hired good people who he felt would help him grow the company, and together they created modern-day franchising. They developed a unique method that allowed McDonald’s to own mortgages on land that the franchises occupied, and as he recounts, the initial $1,000 investment was parlayed into more than $170 million of real estate.

He also was committed to working closely with vendors and partners that supported him as the business grew. Many of those vendors are still part of McDonalds’s system today, and many of his initial employees and franchisees stayed with the company as it expanded. He comments that he has been told that Ray Kroc created more millionaires than anyone else in American history.

The book concludes by discussing his work with the Ronald McDonald House and his philanthropic endeavors in later life.

It is a remarkable American success story and one with many valuable business lessons. He understood the necessity of relentless effort and the value of creating a system that could be duplicated. He hired great people to do their jobs, valued loyalty among employees and suppliers, and gave back to the community. On my next visit to a McDonald’s, I will have even more respect for all of the work and effort that went into what Ray Kroc created.

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    diary of a chocolatier
Chocolatier Michael Szyliowicz is an innovator who crafts quality syrups in his Denver lab. Michael's adventurous spirit takes him around the globe in search of trends and best practices. He shares his musings, observations and experiences.

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Fun Fact #77

One plain milk chocolate candy bar has more protein than a banana.

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Book Review – “Molecular Gastronomy” by Herve This

Molecular Gastronomy is a fast-growing part of the culinary world and one I enjoy. The idea is to understand the science of cooking and be able to use commercially available products such as gums and gels that are normally incorporated into food processing in a culinary, restaurant setting. Using these products allows chefs to create [...]



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“As with most fine things, chocolate has its season.  There is a simple memory aid that you can use to determine whether it is the correct time to order chocolate dishes:  any month whose name contains the letter A, E, or U is the proper time for chocolate.”

“As with most fine things, chocolate has its season.  There is a simple memory aid that you can use to determine whether it is the correct time to order chocolate dishes:  any month whose name contains the letter A, E, or U is the proper time for chocolate.”



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