It is hard to believe that a book written in 1825 about cooking and food would continue to be relevant today, but Brillat-Savarin’s masterpiece is as timely now as it was almost two centuries ago when it first appeared. This astute analysis of food, cooking and eating covers every aspect of cuisine, including recipes, discussions of meals, culinary adventures and how different types of food affect people. The book revels in the pleasures of food in all of its forms.

Each section of the book is divided into Meditations, ranging from Gastronomy in General, defined as the intelligent knowledge of whatever concerns man’s nourishment, to Meditations on Food in General. Within each Meditation are more detailed discussions, including some of my favorites on sugar, coffee and chocolate.
One intriguing aspect of what he writes is its historical perspective. In the early 1800s, restaurants were just becoming commonplace, so several Meditations discuss these new establishments, including the novelties of their menus — which for the first time gave people the opportunity to select dishes for their meals from a variety of preparations.
So too, his comments about sugar are interesting, noting how widespread its use had become, albeit in such a relatively short period of time. “The use of sugar has daily become more widespread and more general, and there is not a single article of food which has undergone more changes and more combinations. People eat it in its pure state, mixed with water, made into syrup, sherbets, mixed with wine to make cordials … mixed with flour and eggs for the fairly new art of baking little cakes … mixed with coffee sugar accentuates the aroma. … The uses of sugar do not stop there, however. It can be said that it is the universal flavoring and ruins nothing.”
Brillat-Savarin was fastidious in his study of food, carefully re-creating recipes and processes to determine the best methods of preparation. Coffee received special scrutiny from both a historical perspective in where it originated and then how it was best prepared. “The beverage brewed from raw beans is truly insignificant; but roasting develops in them an aroma and forms an oil which characterizes coffee as we know it today, and which would have remained eternally unsuspected without the intervention of heat.” He relates the difference between grinding coffee with a mortar and pestle and with a coffee mill. Taking a pound of coffee, he separated the beans into two equal portions, grinding one with a mortar and pestle, the other with a coffee mill. “The unanimous opinion was that the beverage made from the pounded beans was obviously superior to that which came from the milled coffee.” I kept thinking how that might make for an interesting morning ritual at home and at coffee shops across the world, were everyone to adopt his advice!
Chocolate was another item that he carefully studied, and, to the delight of connoisseurs everywhere, he pronounced, “With time and experience it has been shown as proof positive that carefully prepared chocolate is as healthful a food as it is pleasant; that it is nourishing and easily digested; that it is above all helpful to people who must do a great deal of mental work. … People who habitually drink chocolate enjoy unvarying health, and are least attacked by a host of little illnesses which can destroy the true joy of living; their physical weight is almost stationary. … Americans make their chocolate without sugar … this appeals neither to our manners nor to our preferences, and here in France we like to have chocolate served to us all prepared.”
Two centuries later, it is refreshing to read Brillat-Savarin’s words and realize how little has changed in many of the foods we eat and the beverages we drink. This book reminds us of the timelessness and universality of the products we enjoy daily and is a necessary addition to the library of anyone interested in gastronomy and food.