Chocolate in Milan

November 25th, 2009

There is a long history of chocolate in Milan, with one well-known store, Venchi, dating back to the late 1800s. During my visit, I wanted to check out some of the different locations and see what was being made and sold. My tour started at ChocoCult, a space on three levels with a nifty chandelier made from metal and containing light bulbs inside of wire whisks hanging down the stairwell. ChocoCult offers gelato, espresso, chocolate bars and handmade chocolates. I tried the drinking chocolate, which was thick and rich and not overly sweet. Fresh whipped cream helped give the drink added body. And I thought the chocolate ganache centers in the chocolates were nicely made.

The next stop was at Chocolat Milano. I love its logo! This is a tiny place on Via Boccaccio, and it was packed. People were falling all over one another trying to get in and try the gelato, drinks and chocolates. Many of the chocolates had an interesting crunch, with a feuilletine added to the centers for added texture. But what surprised me was that there was no chocolate display case. All of the chocolates were prepacked into gift boxes, so it was impossible to choose one’s own assortment. Never my favorite way to buy chocolates, since my rule of thumb when purchasing chocolate as a gift is to always give people what you like, on the chance that you will be offered some!

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My next stop was at Cioccolat0 e Sapori, a small boutique owned by Franco Aguzzi. I had the chance to talk to Franco. He makes all of his chocolates in another location, and most of his business is wholesale. However, in his store there is a small display case with different varieties. He gave me different pieces to sample, including a dark-chocolate truffle with rum, a Grand Marnier-filled piece and the dark chocolate he uses to make the chocolates. I was quite happy choosing my own assortments this time, with my biggest decision being whether I want to give them away as gifts or keep them for myself!

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Next I visited Venchi, the traditional chocolate shop from 1878. Chocolates there were classically European, costing about €60 a kilogram, or about $45 a pound. In addition to its finished chocolates, Venchi had nice packaging with its own label for gifts.

My last stop was Chocolato Puro, a small shop tucked away on Piazza Carmine. It had the most innovative and interesting packaging, including small boxes that had inner partitions holding four types of chocolate candies like panned chocolate beans. The shop’s daily dose was a small treat in a cellophane box that contained seven individual servings for €5, a great idea for a daily treat. The Campari truffle I had was one of the best I enjoyed all day.

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By the time I returned to my hotel, I was laden with boxes from all of the places I had visited. I loved Milano for its logo and energy. I enjoyed talking with M. Aguzzi about his chocolates and had the closest connection with him as an owner of the enterprise. ChocoCult made a terrific drink for me, Venchi was the classic European shop, and Chocolato Puro offered the most innovative packaging and had some of the best-tasting chocolates as well. I’m glad I got to visit all of them so I didn’t have to choose from just one. Now I’m looking forward to hearing what my friends say about their gifts. And more important, if they share what I brought with me!

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    diary of a chocolatier
Chocolatier Michael Szyliowicz is an innovator who crafts quality syrups in his Denver lab. Michael's adventurous spirit takes him around the globe in search of trends and best practices. He shares his musings, observations and experiences.

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