12.26.11
Michael Szyliowicz

 

Cuba has a long tradition with sugar and rum. Beginning in the 1500s, sugar was cultivated on the island, becoming its biggest export and cash crop. Slaves were brought from Haiti to work the fields, cutting the cane.  In the 1700s, as distillation became more prevalent, the crop was used to produce rum, and soon entire villages were created to process the sugar cane and distill it into rum. The sugarcane is crushed to obtain juice, which is then fermented with a mixture of yeast and water.

During this fermentation process the rum is stirred in large vats. The type of yeast used will help determine the final flavor of the rum, with slow acting yeast giving a fuller, richer flavor, whereas faster acting yeast produces a lighter taste. When the fermentation is complete, the liquid is distilled using either a column or pot still. After distillation the rum is transferred to casks for aging. Often wooden barrels are aged, giving the finished rum a darker color and enhanced flavor.

By the early 1800s, Cuba was the second country in the world to have a sophisticated train network, allowing the movement of sugar cane from the fields to the factories and then finished bottles of rum to warehouses for shipment worldwide. The most...

10.07.10
Michael Szyliowicz

Sweets and candies have been made and consumed for thousands of years, with some of the earliest evidence dating back to 8000 B.C. when honey was first used as a sweetener and added to cereals or grains. Sugar cane was domesticated between 8000 and 4000 B.C. in Papua New Guinea, and from there it spread to India and Southeast Asia. (Surprisingly, on a recent visit to PNG, I found that today there is not a strong sugar industry within the country.) Processing sugar cane into something sweet is complicated, and sugar (as we know it) was not produced until sometime between 2000 B.C. and 500 B.C. The Indians created a number of sweets with sugar, in part because the Jains, an Indian religious group who are strict vegetarians, did not want to consume honey because it came from an insect. As they perfected working with sugar, more and unusual ingredients were added to make different treats, including fruits, nuts, spices, ginger and licorice. Because sugar...

Beverages, Book Reviews, Travel
09.16.10
Michael Szyliowicz

Papua New Guinea Cocoa

Papua New Guinea grows cacao beans, some of which are used in single-origin chocolate bars. I’ve always liked the description on Michel Cluizel’s bars hailing from Papua Nouvelle Asie, and on this trip I asked to visit a cacao farm. Boating upriver along the Karawari, we suddenly veered to the riverbank, and I was told to jump out. Scrambling up the muddy slope and following the guide, he showed me the cacao trees, some with ripe pods. The guide told me that growing cocoa in Papua New Guinea is now encouraged by the government as part of a sustainability initiative, and there are 17,000 trees under cultivation. The government provides money to grow the crops and then purchases the beans from farmers to sell to chocolate producers. We plucked a pod and returned to the boat, where we cracked it open.

It is always surprising tasting fresh cacao beans, since they don’t have a chocolate flavor but instead remind me of citrus. These beans had...